# Raj pattern

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Thai men's costume

Raj pattern King Chulalongkorn wears Raj pattern in 1890 Type National costume and dress uniform for men Place of origin Thailand

***Raj pattern*** ([Thai](/source/Thai_language): ราชปะแตน, [RTGS](/source/Royal_Thai_General_System_of_Transcription): *ratcha-pataen*, pronounced [\[râːt.tɕʰā.pā.tɛ̄ːn\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Help:IPA/Thai)) refers either to a [Thai](/source/Thailand) men's [costume](/source/Costume) consisting of a white [jacket](/source/Jacket) with five buttons, a *[chong kraben](/source/Chong_kraben)*, knee-length [socks](/source/Socks) and [slip-on shoes](/source/Slip-on_shoe), or to the specific form of the jacket itself. It was worn chiefly during the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries by government officials and the upper class in [Bangkok](/source/Bangkok), and nowadays is used in select circumstances as a [national costume](/source/National_costume). The symbolizes a fusion of [Thai tradition](/source/Traditional_Thai_clothing) and western influences during the era of modernization.

## History

King Chulalongkorn with Prince Vajirunhis and entourage wear raj pattern in 1890

Gen. [Prem Tinsulanonda](/source/Prem_Tinsulanonda) wearing the *raj pattern* jacket as part of the white dress uniform

### Origin

In 1870, the king had his entourage dressed in a combination of *[chong kraben](/source/Sompot_Chong_Kben)* (a [wrap](/source/Wrap_(clothing)) worn with part of the fabric folded back between the legs and tucked behind the waist) and Western [suit jacket](/source/Suit_jacket), socks and shoes during his visit to [Singapore](/source/Singapore) and [Java](/source/Java).

The *raj pattern* was devised by King [Chulalongkorn](/source/Chulalongkorn) (Rama V) during his visit to [British India](/source/British_India) in 1871, where he hired a [Calcutta](/source/Calcutta) tailor to make a jacket with a standing [collar](/source/Collar_(clothing)) and buttoned vertical opening. This new jacket replaced the suit jacket, alleviating the need for a separate layer of shirt in the hot climate, and the dress soon became the de facto civil uniform.[1] It was worn both officially and privately and remained popular until the [Pibulsonggram](/source/Pibulsonggram) era, when the *chong kraben* was banned by [cultural mandate](/source/Thai_cultural_mandates). The name *raj pattern*, from [Pali](/source/Pali) *rājā* and English *pattern* and meaning *royal pattern*,[2] was coined by Phon Bunnak (later the Chao Phraya Phasakorawong), who was acting as royal secretary during the king's journey.[1]

### Modern

Nowadays, the full *raj pattern* costume is worn only on select occasions as a national costume, and is employed regularly only in the tourism industry. The jacket, however, has found continued use in the [dress uniforms](/source/Dress_uniform) of the civil and military services,[2] as well as the formal clothing worn with the *[suea khrui](/source/Suea_khrui)* as the [academic dress](/source/Academic_dress) of certain universities, where it is worn with trousers in the Western style. Another Thai garment which is very similar in design is the *[suea phraratchathan](/source/Suea_phraratchathan)*.

## Design

The Raj pattern has similarities with the [Nehru jacket](/source/Nehru_jacket), but specific characteristics.

### Jacket

Rama V wore the original Raj pattern while on an unofficial tour of the [Malay Peninsula](/source/Malay_Peninsula) in 1890. The [tailored fit](/source/Tailor) jacket features a standing collar with a vertical five-button front. The long sleeves have 2 buttons. The white round buttons are fabric cloth covered. All buttons are fastened while standing. There is 1 curved [patch pocket](/source/Pocket) (no flaps) on the lower left side of the chest, horizontally aligned above the left forearm. It's made of the same material as the jacket and stitched on. There are 2 curved patch pockets on the lower front of the jacket (waist height). The entire jacket has [corduroy](/source/Corduroy) raised vertical lines. The jacket sleeve ends just before the wrist bone of the hand while standing relaxed. A [dress shirt](/source/Dress_shirt) is usually not worn underneath due to the [warm climate](/source/Geography_of_Thailand) in Thailand. The shirt cuffs are covered by the sleeves in relaxed state. The jacket length is between the wrist bone and the first set of knuckles when arms are relaxed at the side.

Modern Raj pattern jackets may have 2 welt pockets on the chest and 2 on the lower front side. The fabric can be [embellished](/source/Embellishment) with a variety of patterns and colors.

#### Pants & shoes

Traditionally Rama V wore [chong kraben](/source/Sompot_Chong_Kben) with white or bicolor horizontal striped, knee-length [socks](/source/Socks) and formal black [loafers](/source/Slip-on_shoe). A staff member wore white [Oxford shoes](/source/Oxford_shoe). Nowadays, men also wear formal [trousers](/source/Trousers) with [dress shoes](/source/Dress_shoe).

## Gallery

These are examples of men wearing raj pattern.

## References

1. ^ [***a***](#cite_ref-Sakulthai_1-0) [***b***](#cite_ref-Sakulthai_1-1) Phakdiphumin, Chunlada (26 August 2003). [เสื้อเสนากุฎ](http://www.sakulthai.com/DSakulcolumndetailsql.asp?stcolumnid=2359&stissueid=2549&stcolcatid=2&stauthorid=13). *Sakulthai* (in Thai). **49** (2549). Retrieved 5 June 2010.

1. ^ [***a***](#cite_ref-Royal_Institute_2-0) [***b***](#cite_ref-Royal_Institute_2-1) [Royal Institute](/source/Royal_Society_of_Thailand) (2003). พจนานุกรมฉบับราชบัณฑิตยสถาน พ.ศ. 2542 [*[Royal Institute Dictionary](/source/Royal_Institute_Dictionary) B.E. 2542*] (in Thai). Bangkok: Nanmee Books. [ISBN](/source/ISBN_(identifier)) [974-9588-04-5](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Special:BookSources/974-9588-04-5).

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Adapted from the Wikipedia article [Raj pattern](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raj_pattern) by Wikipedia contributors ([contributor history](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raj_pattern?action=history)). Available under [Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/). Changes may have been made.