# Patrick Gabarrou

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{{Short description|French mountaineer and mountain guide}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=August 2022}}
'''Patrick Gabarrou''' a.k.a. '''"Le Gab"''' (born 19 July 1951 in [Évreux](/source/%C3%89vreux)), is a French [mountaineer](/source/mountaineering) and [mountain guide](/source/mountain_guide) who is credited with more than 300 [first ascent](/source/first_ascent)s, most of them in the [Mont Blanc massif](/source/Mont_Blanc_massif).

He has been the president of the international environmental [NGO](/source/NGO) [Mountain Wilderness](/source/Mountain_Wilderness) from 2006 to 2010. He is mostly an [ice climber](/source/ice_climbing), and is considered to be a pioneer of the modern wave of ice climbing.<ref>"State of the Art, The Alps", ''American Alpine Journal'', Vol. 43, Issue 75, 2001, pp 140–47</ref>

He also opened routes in several other regions like Canada, Bolivia and Patagonia.

==First ascents==

===Mountain routes===
* ''Boivin-Gabarrou'' on the north face of [Les Droites](/source/Les_Droites) (with [Jean-Marc Boivin](/source/Jean-Marc_Boivin)), 1975
* ''[Supercouloir](/source/Supercouloir_(climb))'' and Gabarrou-Albinoni on [Mont Blanc du Tacul](/source/Mont_Blanc_du_Tacul)
* ''Hypercouloir'' on [Mont Blanc](/source/Mont_Blanc) (with Pierre-Alain Steiner), 1982
* ''Divine Providence'' on the [Grand Pilier d'Angle](/source/Grand_Pilier_d'Angle), 1984
* ''Gabarrou-Silvy'' on the Aiguille Sans Nom, 1985
* ''Directissime'' on the [Grandes Jorasses](/source/Grandes_Jorasses) (with Hervé Bouvard), 1986
* ''Aux amis disparus'' on the [Matterhorn](/source/Matterhorn) (with Lionel Daudet)
* ''Directissime de la Margerita'' on [Monte Rosa](/source/Monte_Rosa) (with Christian Appertet), 1992
* ''Alexis'' on Point Whymper of the Grandes Jorasses (with Benoît Robert), 1993 
* ''A Leï'' on the Grandes Jorasses (with Philippe Batoux and Benoît Robert), February 2003
* ''Heidi'' on the Grandes Jorasses (with Philippe Batoux and Christophe Dumarest), 17–21 March 2005
* ''Ciao Walter'' on Mont-Blanc (with Simon Deniel and Ben O'Connor-Croft), 2012
* ''Brigite'' on the [Arête des Grands Montets](/source/Aiguille_des_Grands_Montets) (with his wife Franca et Philippe Lansard), 5 April 2013<ref name=Moisy/>
* ''René Croft'' between the ''Boivin-Gabarrou'' and the ''Barnoud-Marsigny'' on the north face of [Les Droites](/source/Les_Droites) (with Ben O'Connor-Croft), 25–26 April 2013<ref name=Moisy>{{cite news|last=Moisy|first=Pauline|title=Patrick Gabarrou ouvre trois voies dans le massif du Mont-Blanc|url=http://www.ledauphine.com/haute-savoie/2013/05/04/patrick-gabarrou-ouvre-trois-voies-dans-le-massif-du-mont-blanc#jimage=AC3E2E05-3F10-4471-8B4C-B1429BFE96BB|access-date=2013-05-05|newspaper=Le Dauphiné|date=2013-05-05}}</ref>
* ''Padre Pio, Une Echelle Vers le Ciel'' on the south face of [Matterhorn](/source/Matterhorn), 2015 (see Alpinist article) <ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web15y/wfeature-a-stairway-to-heaven-matterhorn|title=A Stairway to Heaven on the Matterhorn - Alpinist.com|website=www.alpinist.com|date=20 November 2015 |accessdate=16 April 2023}}</ref>

===Ice climbs===
* ''Cascade Notre Dame'', 700 m, V, WI6 (with François Marsigny), 1984
* ''Freneysie Pascale'', 1984
* ''Abominette'', 700 m, IV, 5.8, WI3 (with [Christophe Profit](/source/Christophe_Profit) and Sylviane Tavernier), 1984
* ''Fantomastic'', 700 m, V, WI6 (with François Marsigny), 1985
* ''Patagonic'', 700 m, M6, V+, WI6, A1 (with Christophe Dumarest), 2003

===Skiing===
* First descent of the north face of the Col de Peuterey, with [Jean-Marc Boivin](/source/Jean-Marc_Boivin), 1977
* Winner, French championship of [ski-mountaineering](/source/ski-mountaineering) 1989, together with [Pierre d'Alboy](/source/Pierre_d'Alboy)
* Sixth place, [Pierra Menta](/source/Pierra_Menta) 1989, together with Pierre d'Alboy 
* Fourth, Pierra Menta 1991, together with [Lionel Mailly](/source/Lionel_Mailly)
* First descent of the south face of the [Tour Noir](/source/Tour_Noir), with Ben O’Connor-Croft, 16 April 2013<ref name=Moisy/>

==References==
{{Reflist}}

== External links==
* [https://patrickgabarrou.fr/ Gabarrou's personal web site]
* [http://www.summitpost.org/fact-sheet/254187/the-finest-alpinists-in-the-world.html Summitpost on Gabarrou]

{{Authority control}}

{{DEFAULTSORT:Gabarrou, Patrick}}
Category:Alpine guides
Category:French mountain climbers
Category:French male ski mountaineers
Category:Sportspeople from Évreux
Category:Living people
Category:1951 births
Category:Tibet freedom activists
Category:Ice climbers
Category:20th-century French sportsmen

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Adapted from the Wikipedia article [Patrick Gabarrou](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Patrick_Gabarrou) by Wikipedia contributors ([contributor history](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Patrick_Gabarrou?action=history)). Available under [Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/). Changes may have been made.