# Mount Hunter (Alaska)

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Mountain in Alaska

Mount Hunter Begguya Mount Hunter from the northwest (Kahilta Base Camp) Highest point Elevation 14,573 ft (4,442 m)[1] NAVD88 Prominence 4,653 ft (1,418 m)[1] Isolation 6.88 mi (11.07 km)[1] Listing North America highest peaks 22nd US highest major peaks 10th Alaska highest major peaks 10th Coordinates 62°57′03″N 151°05′22″W / 62.95083°N 151.08944°W / 62.95083; -151.08944[2] Geography Mount Hunter Location in Alaska Interactive map of Mount Hunter Location Matanuska-Susitna Borough, Alaska, U.S. Parent range Alaska Range Topo map USGS Talkeetna D-3[2] Climbing First ascent 1954 by Fred Beckey, Heinrich Harrer, Henry Meybohm[3] Easiest route serious snow/ice/rock climb (Alaska Grade 4, 5.8, AI 3)

**Mount Hunter** or **Begguya** is a [mountain](/source/Mountain) in [Denali National Park](/source/Denali_National_Park_and_Preserve) in [Alaska](/source/Alaska). It is approximately eight miles (13 km) south of [Denali](/source/Denali), the highest peak in North America. "Begguya" means child (of Denali) in the [Dena'ina language](/source/Dena'ina_language). Mount Hunter is the third-highest major peak in the [Alaska Range](/source/Alaska_Range).[\[1\]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Hunter_(Alaska)#endnote_third)

Mount Hunter has a complex structure: it is topped by a large, low-angled glacier plateau, connecting the North (Main) Summit and the South Summit (13,965 feet or 4,257 m). Long, corniced ridges extend in various directions; between them are exceptionally steep faces.

## Naming of the mountain

The native name for the mountain is **Begguya**, meaning "Denali's Child". Early prospectors referred to the mountain as Mount Roosevelt. In 1903, Robert Dunn, a reporter for the *New York Commercial Advertiser*, visited the area as part of [Frederick Cook](/source/Frederick_Cook)'s attempt to climb Denali. He bestowed the name of his aunt Anna Falconnet Hunter (1885–1941), who financed his trip, on a high nearby mountain, prominent from the northwest. This was, in fact, a different peak, now known as Kahiltna Dome. The name Hunter was mistakenly applied to the present-day Mount Hunter by a government surveyor in 1906.[4]

In October 2010, the South Summit was named [Mount Stevens](/source/Mount_Stevens_(Alaska)), after [Ted Stevens](/source/Ted_Stevens) (1923–2010), a former senator of Alaska.[5]

## Climbing history

Despite being much lower in elevation than Denali (formerly Mount McKinley), Mount Hunter is a more difficult climb, due to its steep faces and corniced ridges; it also sees far less traffic than its larger neighbor.

[Fred Beckey](/source/Fred_Beckey), [Heinrich Harrer](/source/Heinrich_Harrer), and Henry Meybohm completed the first ascent in 1954, via the long West Ridge; this was a great accomplishment for the time and used techniques such as extensive front-pointing which were unusual in the climbing world.[3]

Beginning in 1977, with [Michael Kennedy](/source/Michael_Kennedy_(climber)) and [George Lowe](/source/George_Henry_Lowe)'s climb of a route on the northwest face of Mount Hunter, this steep rock and ice face has been the scene of many landmark hard climbs.

### Notable ascents

- 1954 *West Ridge* - first ascent of the peak by [Fred Beckey](/source/Fred_Beckey), [Heinrich Harrer](/source/Heinrich_Harrer), and Henry Meybohm[6][3]

- 1977 *Lowe-Kennedy*, on the north face.[7]

- 1978 *Southeast Spur* by John Mallon Waterman (solo, 145 days)[8]

- 1981 *Moonflower Buttress* (Alaska Grade 6: 5.8 A3 AI6 6100') first ascent to last rock band by [Mugs Stump](/source/Mugs_Stump) and Paul Aubry (NZ).[9]

- 1983 *Moonflower Buttress* to summit, first complete ascent by Todd Bibler and Doug Klewin.[9]

- 1985 "Diamond Arete" (Alaska Grade 6) first ascent by Jack Tackle and Jim Donini

- 1989 *Northwest Face* first ascent by [Conrad Anker](/source/Conrad_Anker) and Seth 'S.T.' Shaw, summit attained July 3, 1989.[10]

- 1994 *Deprivation*, (Alaska Grade 6, Alpine ED+, 90deg ice) first ascent by Scott Backes and Mark Francis Twight.[11]

- 1994 *Wall of Shadows*, (Alaska Grade 6, AI6+ 5.9 A4) first ascent by [Greg Child](/source/Greg_Child) and [Michael Kennedy](/source/Michael_Kennedy_(climber)).[12]

## Gallery

		- Looking down the SW Ridge at about 10,500 ft

		- Mount Hunter

		- Sunrise on Mount Hunter

		- Mount Hunter

Mount Hunter, nestled between Mount Foraker and Denali

## See also

- [North America portal](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Portal:North_America)
- [United States portal](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Portal:United_States)
- [Alaska portal](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Portal:Alaska)
- [Mountains portal](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Portal:Mountains)

- [List of mountain peaks of North America](/source/List_of_mountain_peaks_of_North_America) - [List of mountain peaks of the United States](/source/List_of_mountain_peaks_of_the_United_States) - [List of mountain peaks of Alaska](/source/List_of_mountain_peaks_of_Alaska)

- [List of the highest major summits of the United States](/source/List_of_the_highest_major_summits_of_the_United_States)

- [List of the most prominent summits of the United States](/source/List_of_the_most_prominent_summits_of_the_United_States)

## Notes

1. **[^](#ref_third)** This is excluding the North Peak and other sub-summits of [Denali](/source/Denali).

## References

1. ^ [***a***](#cite_ref-PB_1-0) [***b***](#cite_ref-PB_1-1) [***c***](#cite_ref-PB_1-2) ["Mount Hunter, Alaska"](http://www.peakbagger.com/peak.aspx?pid=285). *Peakbagger.com*. Retrieved December 30, 2015.

1. ^ [***a***](#cite_ref-gnis_2-0) [***b***](#cite_ref-gnis_2-1) ["Mount Hunter"](https://edits.nationalmap.gov/apps/gaz-domestic/public/search/names/1403631). *[Geographic Names Information System](/source/Geographic_Names_Information_System)*. [United States Geological Survey](/source/United_States_Geological_Survey), [United States Department of the Interior](/source/United_States_Department_of_the_Interior). Retrieved August 3, 2014.

1. ^ [***a***](#cite_ref-AAJ_1955_3-0) [***b***](#cite_ref-AAJ_1955_3-1) [***c***](#cite_ref-AAJ_1955_3-2) [Beckey, Fred](/source/Fred_Beckey) (1955). ["Mt. Deborah and Mt. Hunter: First Ascents"](https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12195503900). *[American Alpine Journal](/source/American_Alpine_Journal)*. **9** (2). [American Alpine Club](/source/American_Alpine_Club). Retrieved November 22, 2020.

1. **[^](#cite_ref-4)** Jonathan Waterman, *High Alaska*, AAC Press, 1988.

1. **[^](#cite_ref-alaskadispatch_5-0)** ["Hello, Mount Stevens!"](https://web.archive.org/web/20101023131553/http://alaskadispatch.com/dispatches/alaska-beat/88-alaska-beat/7202-hello-mount-stevens). *Alaska Beat*. Alaska Dispatch Publishing. October 19, 2010. Archived from [the original](http://www.alaskadispatch.com/dispatches/alaska-beat/88-alaska-beat/7202-hello-mount-stevens) on October 23, 2010. Retrieved October 19, 2010.

1. **[^](#cite_ref-6)** Selters 2004, p. 170

1. **[^](#cite_ref-7)** Selters 2004, p. 263

1. **[^](#cite_ref-8)** [Krakauer, Jon](/source/Jon_Krakauer) (January 1993). ["Death of an Innocent: How Christopher McCandless lost his way in the wilds"](https://www.independent.co.uk/arts-entertainment/death-of-an-innocent-in-1990-chris-mccandless-left-his-welloff-east-coast-family-gave-his-college-fund-to-oxfam-and-took-to-the-road--young-idealistic-invincible-last-year-equipped-with-little-more-than-tolstoy-and-a-rifle-he-hitched-into-alaska-there-the-wilderness-turned-against-him-1454550.html). *[The Independent](/source/The_Independent)*. [Outside Magazine](/source/Outside_(magazine)). Retrieved June 28, 2020.{{[cite web](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Template:Cite_web)}}: CS1 maint: deprecated archival service ([link](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_deprecated_archival_service))

1. ^ [***a***](#cite_ref-Westman_9-0) [***b***](#cite_ref-Westman_9-1) Westman, Mark (May 25, 2007). ["Hunter: Grand repeat and epic near-ascent"](http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP19/newswire-hunter-westman-walsh-bracey-houseman). *Alpinist Newswire*. Alpinist Magazine. Retrieved July 24, 2010.

1. **[^](#cite_ref-AAJ_1990_10-0)** Anker, Conrad (1990). ["Hunter's Northwest Face"](https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199003700). *American Alpine Journal*. **42** (64). NYC, NY, USA: American Alpine Club: 36–38. [ISBN](/source/ISBN_(identifier)) [0-930410-43-2](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-930410-43-2). Retrieved November 22, 2020.

1. **[^](#cite_ref-AAJ_1995_mt_11-0)** Twight, Mark Francis (1995). [""Deprivation" on Mount Hunter"](https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199501100). *American Alpine Journal*. **37** (69). Golden, CO, USA: American Alpine Club: 11–14. [ISBN](/source/ISBN_(identifier)) [0-930410-61-0](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-930410-61-0). Retrieved May 5, 2025.

1. **[^](#cite_ref-AAJ_1995_mk_12-0)** Kennedy, Michael (1995). ["Shadows of Doubt, Mount Hunter"](https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199500100). *American Alpine Journal*. **37** (69). Golden, CO, USA: American Alpine Club: 1–10. [ISBN](/source/ISBN_(identifier)) [0-930410-61-0](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-930410-61-0). Retrieved November 22, 2020.

**Sources**

- Selters, Andy (2004). *Ways to the Sky*. Golden, CO, USA: The American Alpine Club Press. [ISBN](/source/ISBN_(identifier)) [0-930410-83-1](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-930410-83-1).

## External links

**Mount Hunter**  at Wikipedia's [sister projects](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Wikimedia_sister_projects)

- [Definitions](https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/Special:Search/Mount_Hunter) from Wiktionary
- [Media](https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Special:Search/Mount_Hunter) from Commons
- [Quotations](https://en.wikiquote.org/wiki/Special:Search/Mount_Hunter) from Wikiquote
- [Texts](https://en.wikisource.org/wiki/Special:Search/Mount_Hunter) from Wikisource
- [Textbooks](https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Special:Search/Mount_Hunter) from Wikibooks
- [Resources](https://en.wikiversity.org/wiki/Special:Search/Mount_Hunter) from Wikiversity

- Mount Hunter weather: [Mountain Forecast](https://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Mount-Hunter/forecasts/4442)

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Adapted from the Wikipedia article [Mount Hunter (Alaska)](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Hunter_(Alaska)) by Wikipedia contributors ([contributor history](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Hunter_(Alaska)?action=history)). Available under [Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/). Changes may have been made.