# Lost Arrow Spire

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Detached pillar in Yosemite

Lost Arrow Spire Highest point Elevation 6,930 ft (2,110 m) Coordinates 37°45′22″N 119°35′35″W / 37.75600°N 119.593°W / 37.75600; -119.593[1] Geography Lost Arrow Spire Location in California Show map of California Lost Arrow Spire Lost Arrow Spire (the United States) Show map of the United States Location Yosemite National Park Parent range Sierra Nevada Geology Rock age Cretaceous Mountain type granite rock

**Lost Arrow Spire** is a detached pillar in [Yosemite National Park](/source/Yosemite_National_Park), in [Yosemite Valley](/source/Yosemite_Valley), [California](/source/California), located immediately adjacent to [Upper Yosemite Falls](/source/Yosemite_Falls). The structure includes the *Lost Arrow Spire Chimney* route which is recognized in the historic climbing text *[Fifty Classic Climbs of North America](/source/Fifty_Classic_Climbs_of_North_America)*.[2] The spire is the location for a dramatic and famous [Tyrolean traverse](/source/Tyrolean_traverse), which has since become an equally notable [slackline](/source/Slacklining).

## Climbing

In 1946, the spire was first summited by [lassoing](/source/Lasso) the tip from the main valley rim wall, 125-feet away, after which 29-year old Ax Nelson [prusiked](/source/Prusik) the lassoed line to the peak, followed by Jack Arnold. [Steve Roper](/source/Steve_Roper) called it "one of the greatest rope stunts ever pulled off in climbing history", climbers did not recognize it as a true [rock climbing](/source/Rock_climbing) ascent with Nelson saying: "Spectacular and effective though [it] was, this maneuver required very little real climbing".[3][4][5]

That same year, 48-year old Swiss immigrant, [John Salathé](/source/John_Salath%C3%A9), had also been attempting the spire and had invented a major improvement to the climbing [piton](/source/Piton) using the alloy used for the Ford Model A axle, which would be able to endure the compact granite of Yosemite without buckling (called [Lost Arrows](/source/Lost_Arrow)).[3]

### *Lost Arrow Spire Chimney*

Lost Arrow Spire Chimney Location California, USA Coordinates 37°45′22″N 119°35′35″W / 37.75600°N 119.593°W / 37.75600; -119.593 Climbing area Yosemite Valley Route type Aid, Traditional Vertical gain 1,400 feet Pitches 10 Technical grade 5.5 A3 or 5.10 A2 First ascent Salathé, Nelson, 1947.

In 1947, Ax Nelson and John Salathé joined forces, and using Salathé's new pitons, made the true [first ascent](/source/First_ascent) via the *Lost Arrow Spire Chimney* ([5.5 A3 or 5.10 A2](/source/Grade_(climbing))), a route that combined both [traditional climbing](/source/Traditional_climbing) and [aid climbing](/source/Aid_climbing) techniques, and took the pair 5 days.[3]

The route is listed in *[Fifty Classic Climbs of North America](/source/Fifty_Classic_Climbs_of_North_America)* and is considered a classic.[6][7][8] Climbing historian Steve Roper called the ascent, "a true Valley milestone: the first big-wall climb ever done in the United States - and without a doubt the beginning of the Golden Age of Yosemite climbing".[9]

In June 1985, [Jerry Moffatt](/source/Jerry_Moffatt) did the [first free ascent](/source/First_free_ascent) of the *Lost Arrow Spire Chimney* with [Ron Kauk](/source/Ron_Kauk), as a live television event with an audience of over 30 million for [ABC](/source/American_Broadcasting_Company)'s *[Wide World of Sports](/source/Wide_World_of_Sports_(American_TV_program))*.[10]

In 2020, a six-year-old child named Sam Baker climbed the spire alongside his father.[11]

### *Lost Arrow Spire Tip*

[Tyrolean traverse](/source/Tyrolean_traverse) from the spire

The last two [pitches](/source/Pitch_(ascent%2Fdescent)) of *Lost Arrow Spire Chimney* are called the *Lost Arrow Spire Tip* ([5.12b or 5.7 C2](/source/Grade_(climbing))) and complete the detached portion of the spire. The first free ascent of the Tip was in 1984 by a team led by [Dave Shultz](/source/Dave_Shultz). The Tip route is often reached by [rappelling](/source/Rappelling) into an area known as *The Notch*. Once the route is completed climbers can return to the main wall via a dramatic and famous [Tyrolean traverse](/source/Tyrolean_traverse).

## Slacklining

Lost Arrow Spire was to become one of the early hotspots for [highlining](/source/Slacklining#Highlining_history), the version of [slacklining](/source/Slackline) in very high places.[12] The line is typically 17-meters long and is 880-meters above the valley floor, and has a downhill (walking towards the Spire) and an uphill (walking away from the Spire) direction.[13]

The first person to perform a slackline to the Lost Arrow Spire was Scott Balcom on July 13, 1985; he used a safety leash.[14][15] The first female to perform the feat was [Libby Sauter](/source/Libby_Sauter) on July 17, 2007; she also used a safety leash.[14]

In 1995, Darrin Carter became the first person to perform a slackline to the Lost Arrow Spire without any safety leash, called a "free solo" slackline, which he did on the downhill version; he was also only the second person after Balcom to complete a Lost Arrow Spire slackline.[14] In 2003, [Dean Potter](/source/Dean_Potter) became the first person to perform a "free solo" slackline in both downhill and uphill directions; Potter was only the second person to complete a "free solo" Lost Arrow Spire slackline after Carter.[14]

## See also

- *[Separate Reality](/source/Separate_Reality_(climb))*, an iconic [free soloing](/source/Free_solo) route in Yosemite

- *[The Nose (El Capitan)](/source/The_Nose_(El_Capitan))*, a [5.14a](/source/Grade_(climbing)#Free_climbing) (8b+) route in Yosemite

- *[Salathé Wall](/source/Salath%C3%A9_Wall)*, a [5.13](/source/Grade_(climbing)#Free_climbing) (7c+) route in Yosemite

## References

1. **[^](#cite_ref-sp_1-0)** ["Lost Arrow Spire"](https://www.summitpost.org/page/151257). *SummitPost.org*. Retrieved 4 December 2014.

1. **[^](#cite_ref-2)** [Roper, Steve](/source/Steve_Roper); [Steck, Allen](/source/Allen_Steck) (1979). *[Fifty Classic Climbs of North America](/source/Fifty_Classic_Climbs_of_North_America)*. San Francisco: Sierra Club Books. [ISBN](/source/ISBN_(identifier)) [0-87156-292-8](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-87156-292-8).

1. ^ [***a***](#cite_ref-Outside_3-0) [***b***](#cite_ref-Outside_3-1) [***c***](#cite_ref-Outside_3-2) ["The 25 Greatest Moments in Yosemite Climbing History"](https://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/climbing/25-greatest-moments-yosemite-climbing-history/). *[Outside](/source/Outside_(magazine))*. 1 June 2016. Retrieved 28 December 2022.

1. **[^](#cite_ref-4)** McNamara, Chris, and Sloan, Erik. *Yosemite Big Walls*. Mill Valley, CA: SuperTopo, 2005. [ISBN](/source/ISBN_(identifier)) [0-9672391-9-2](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-9672391-9-2)

1. **[^](#cite_ref-5)** Challacombe, J. R. (June 1954). "The Fabulous Sierra Nevada". *The National Geographic Magazine*. Vol. CV, no. Six. Washington, DC: National Geographic Society. pp. 826–830.

1. **[^](#cite_ref-6)** [Roper, Steve](/source/Steve_Roper); [Steck, Allen](/source/Allen_Steck) (1979). *[Fifty Classic Climbs of North America](/source/Fifty_Classic_Climbs_of_North_America)*. San Francisco: Sierra Club Books. pp. 269–275. [ISBN](/source/ISBN_(identifier)) [0-87156-292-8](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-87156-292-8).

1. **[^](#cite_ref-7)** McNamara, Chris, and Sloan, Erik. *Yosemite Big Walls*. Mill Valley, CA: SuperTopo, *2005*. [ISBN](/source/ISBN_(identifier)) [0-9672391-9-2](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-9672391-9-2)

1. **[^](#cite_ref-8)** Challacombe, J. R. (June 1954). "The Fabulous Sierra Nevada". *The National Geographic Magazine*. Vol. CV, no. Six. Washington, DC: National Geographic Society. pp. 826–830.

1. **[^](#cite_ref-9)** ["Lost Arrow Spire in Yosemite with Sasha DiGiulian and Kevin Jorgeson"](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/lost-arrow-spire-in-yosemite-with-sasha-digiulian-and-kevin-jorgeson.html). *PlanetMountain*. 1 December 2015. Retrieved 28 December 2022.

1. **[^](#cite_ref-10)** Katz, Michael (June 1985). ["MAN (AND CAMERAS) VS. ROCK ON YOSEMITE PERCH"](https://www.nytimes.com/1985/06/04/sports/tv-sports-man-and-cameras-vs-rock-on-yosemite-perch.html). *[New York Times](/source/New_York_Times)*. Retrieved 15 January 2022.

1. **[^](#cite_ref-11)** Van Leuven, Chris (August 2020). ["6-Year-Old Climber Ascends Yosemite's Iconic Lost Arrow Spire, Flies Kite"](https://www.mensjournal.com/adventure/6-year-old-kid-climbs-yosemites-iconic-lost-arrow-spire-mens-journal/). *[Men's Journal](/source/Men's_Journal)*. Retrieved 5 February 2023.

1. **[^](#cite_ref-12)** Heller, Seth (9 August 2017). ["9 Incredible Places to Slackline in the United States"](https://web.archive.org/web/20210218141512/https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/article/slacklining-united-states-destinations). *[National Geographic](/source/National_Geographic)*. Archived from [the original](https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/article/slacklining-united-states-destinations) on February 18, 2021. Retrieved 5 February 2023.

1. **[^](#cite_ref-13)** Ebner, Dave (13 July 2017). ["A fine balance"](https://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/health-and-fitness/diehards-help-slacklining-edge-into-the-mainstream/article35681086/). *[The Globe and Mail](/source/The_Globe_and_Mail)*. Retrieved 5 February 2023.

1. ^ [***a***](#cite_ref-PMSL_14-0) [***b***](#cite_ref-PMSL_14-1) [***c***](#cite_ref-PMSL_14-2) [***d***](#cite_ref-PMSL_14-3) ["Lost Arrow Spire highline: the first crossing by Scott Balcom"](https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/lost-arrow-spire-highline-the-first-crossing-by-scott-balcom.html). *PlanetMountain*. 6 January 2016. Retrieved 28 December 2022.

1. **[^](#cite_ref-15)** YouTube: [First Slackline Crossing of the Lost Arrow Spire](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c6RYJFz1tqI), July 13, 1985

## External links

Wikimedia Commons has media related to [Lost Arrow Spire](https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Lost_Arrow_Spire).

- [Lost Arrow Spire, Chimney, TipS](http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/151257/lost-arrow-spire.html), *Summitpost* (2022)

- [Lost Arrow Spire Chimney](http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=yblachim), *SuperTopo* (2022)

- [Lost Arrow Spire Tip](http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=yblalati), *SuperTopo* (2022)

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Adapted from the Wikipedia article [Lost Arrow Spire](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lost_Arrow_Spire) by Wikipedia contributors ([contributor history](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lost_Arrow_Spire?action=history)). Available under [Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/). Changes may have been made.