# Joe Tasker

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British mountain climber

For the British television presenter, see [Joe Tasker (YouTuber)](/source/Joe_Tasker_(YouTuber)).

Joe Tasker On Changabang, 1976 Born (1948-05-12)12 May 1948 Kingston upon Hull, England Died 17 May 1982(1982-05-17) (aged 34) The North-East Ridge, Mount Everest, Tibet Occupation Mountaineer

**Joe Tasker** (12 May 1948 – 17 May 1982) was a British [climber](/source/Climbing), active during the late 1970s and early 1980s. He died while climbing [Mount Everest](/source/Mount_Everest).

## Early life

Born into a [Roman Catholic](/source/Roman_Catholic) family in 1948, Tasker was the second of ten children and spent his early childhood in [Port Clarence](/source/Port_Clarence), Middlesbrough. The family later moved to [Billingham](/source/Billingham)[1][2] and Joe attended [Ushaw Seminary](/source/Ushaw_College), [County Durham](/source/County_Durham) between the ages of 13 and 20, in training to become a Catholic priest. Fascinated by *The Climb Up to Hell* by [Jack Olsen](/source/Jack_Olsen), a book recounting harrowing tales of tragic attempts to climb the [North Face](/source/North_face_(Eiger)) of the [Eiger](/source/Eiger), he started climbing in a nearby quarry in 1966.[3]

After leaving the seminary he first worked as a [dustman](/source/Dustman) before studying [sociology](/source/Sociology) at [Manchester University](/source/Manchester_University), where he was an enthusiastic participant in the Student Union's gypsy liaison and soup-run groups. He improved his climbing skills during this time, graduating from rock climbing in Britain to harder routes in the [Alps](/source/Alps).[2]

## Expeditions and death

Tasker's first regular climbing partner was [Dick Renshaw](https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Dick_Renshaw&action=edit&redlink=1), whom he had met at university. Together they climbed the [North Face of the Eiger](/source/North_Face_of_the_Eiger) in the winter of 1975.[3] This was followed later that year by the first ascent of the South-East ridge of [Dunagiri](/source/Dunagiri_(mountain)) (7066m) in the [Garhwal](/source/Garhwal_division) [Himalayas](/source/Himalayas). Running out of food and fuel on the descent, they were lucky to survive, although Renshaw suffered [frostbite](/source/Frostbite) in his fingers.[3]

His ascent in 1976 of the West Face of [Changabang](/source/Changabang) (6864m), which neighboured Dunagiri, saw his first partnership with [Peter Boardman](/source/Peter_Boardman),[3]. Tasker made an unsuccessful attempt on [Nuptse](/source/Nuptse) with [Doug Scott](/source/Doug_Scott) and Mike Covington in the autumn of 1977, and he and Boardman were invited to the [K2](/source/K2) expedition led by [Chris Bonington](/source/Chris_Bonington) in 1978, which was abandoned after [Nick Estcourt](/source/Nick_Estcourt) was killed in an avalanche.[2]

A small team consisting of Tasker, Boardman, and [Doug Scott](/source/Doug_Scott) made an ascent of [Kangchenjunga](/source/Kangchenjunga) (at 8,598 m the third highest mountain in the world) by a new route from the North-West in 1979 (with [Georges Bettembourg](/source/Georges_Bettembourg) also on the team but not making the summit); this was also the first ascent of the mountain without the use of supplementary oxygen. A second attempt on [K2](/source/K2) in 1980 saw Tasker almost wiped out by an avalanche and was ultimately unsuccessful. In the winter of 1980–1981 Tasker was part of an eight-man team (with [Alan Rouse](/source/Alan_Rouse), John Porter, Brian Hall, Adrian Burgess, Alan Burgess, Pete Thexton and [Paul Nunn](/source/Paul_Nunn)) attempting to make a difficult winter assault on the West Face of [Mount Everest](/source/Mount_Everest); this was unsuccessful but was recounted in Tasker's first book *Everest the Cruel Way*.[4]

In 1980, Tasker met Maria Coffey, the girlfriend who would write about her grief following his death in her book *Fragile Edge*.[5] In 1981, he was part of the British team which made the first ascent of [Kongur Tagh](/source/Kongur_Tagh) (7,649 m) in [China](/source/China), accompanied by Chris Bonington, Peter Boardman and Alan Rouse. He disappeared with Boardman on 17 May 1982 on the North-East Ridge of Everest. The body of Boardman was found in 1992, resting in a sitting position just past the second pinnacle in the extremely difficult area of the "[Three Pinnacles](/source/Three_Pinnacles)" on the middle North-East Ridge of Everest.[2] The body of Tasker is still missing, although some of his climbing equipment was found between the second and third pinnacles.

Tasker had delivered his manuscript for his second book, *Savage Arena*, which recounted his climbing life from the 1960s–1980, on the eve of his departure for the British Everest expedition in 1982. The book was published posthumously later that year.[3]

The [Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature](/source/Boardman_Tasker_Prize_for_Mountain_Literature) was founded in memory of Tasker and Boardman and was first awarded in 1983.[6]

## See also

- [List of people who died climbing Mount Everest](/source/List_of_people_who_died_climbing_Mount_Everest)

## References

1. **[^](#cite_ref-1)** ["Early Life – Mountain Heritage Trust"](https://web.archive.org/web/20161202233155/http://www.mountain-heritage.org/essential_grid/early-years/). *Mountain Heritage Trust*. Archived from [the original](http://www.mountain-heritage.org/essential_grid/early-years/) on 2 December 2016. Retrieved 2 December 2016.

1. ^ [***a***](#cite_ref-bonington_2-0) [***b***](#cite_ref-bonington_2-1) [***c***](#cite_ref-bonington_2-2) [***d***](#cite_ref-bonington_2-3) Bonington, Chris; Clarke, Charles (1983). *Everest: The Unclimbed Ridge*. Pan Books. pp. 124–134. [ISBN](/source/ISBN_(identifier)) [0-330-28497-5](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-330-28497-5).

1. ^ [***a***](#cite_ref-Tasker_1982_3-0) [***b***](#cite_ref-Tasker_1982_3-1) [***c***](#cite_ref-Tasker_1982_3-2) [***d***](#cite_ref-Tasker_1982_3-3) [***e***](#cite_ref-Tasker_1982_3-4) Tasker, Joe (1987) [1982]. *Savage Arena*. Methuen. [ISBN](/source/ISBN_(identifier)) [0-413-54110-X](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-413-54110-X).

1. **[^](#cite_ref-4)** Tasker, Joe (1981). *Everest the Cruel Way*. Eyre Methuen Ltd. [ISBN](/source/ISBN_(identifier)) [0-413-48750-4](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-413-48750-4).

1. **[^](#cite_ref-5)** Coffey, Maria (2000). [*Fragile edge : a personal portrait of loss on Everest*](https://archive.org/details/fragileedge00mari). Mountaineers Books. [ISBN](/source/ISBN_(identifier)) [0-89886-737-1](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-89886-737-1).

1. **[^](#cite_ref-6)** ["Home"](http://www.boardmantasker.com/about/). *The Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature*. Retrieved 1 December 2016.

## External links

- [Dick Renshaw's Obituary of Tasker](http://www.boardmantasker.com/s/Joe-Tasker_obituary.pdf)

- [Voices from the Clarences](https://www.bbc.co.uk/tees/voices/tasker/index.shtml) Anne Davies interviews Joe Tasker, Joe Tasker slideshow & BBC Radio Cleveland's report of Joe Tasker's death

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Adapted from the Wikipedia article [Joe Tasker](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Joe_Tasker) by Wikipedia contributors ([contributor history](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Joe_Tasker?action=history)). Available under [Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/). Changes may have been made.
