# Gangapurna
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{{Short description|Mountain in Nepal}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=December 2021}}
{{Infobox mountain
| name = Gangapurna
| native_name ={{native name|ne|गंगापूर्ण}}
| image = Gangapurna Glacier.jpg
| image_caption = Gangapurna in 2011, seen from the northeast
| elevation_m = 7455
| elevation_ref =
[Ranked 59th](/source/List_of_highest_mountains)
| prominence_m = 563
| prominence_ref=
| range = [Annapurna](/source/Annapurna_(mountain_range))
| listing = [Mountains of Nepal](/source/List_of_mountains_in_Nepal)
| country = Nepal
| state = [Gandaki Province](/source/Gandaki_Province)
| state_type = Province
| district = [Kaski](/source/Kaski_District) and [Manang](/source/Manang_District%2C_Nepal)
| map = Nepal Gandaki Province#Nepal
| map_caption = Location in Gandaki Province
| coordinates = {{coord|28.60500431196019|83.96330632666488|type:mountain_scale:100000|format=dms|display=inline,title}}
| first_ascent = 6 May 1965
| easiest_route =
}}
'''Gangapurna''' ({{Langx|ne|गंगापूर्ण}}) is a [mountain](/source/mountain) in [Gandaki Province](/source/Gandaki_Province), Nepal. It is part of the [Annapurna](/source/Annapurna_(mountain_range)) mountain range in north-central Nepal at an elevation of {{Convert|7455|m}} and with the prominence of {{Convert|563|m}}. It was first ascended in 1965 by a German expedition via its south face and east ridge. Gangapurna is entirely located in the [Annapurna Conservation Area](/source/Annapurna_Conservation_Area).
== Geography ==
Gangapurna is located at the border of [Annapurna Rural Municipality](/source/Annapurna_Rural_Municipality%2C_Kaski), [Kaski](/source/Kaski_District) and [Nesyang Rural Municipality](/source/Nesyang_Rural_Municipality), [Manang](/source/Manang_District%2C_Nepal) in [Gandaki Province](/source/Gandaki_Province) at {{Convert|7455|m}} above sea level and its prominence is {{Convert|563|m}}.[{{Cite web|title=Gangapurna|url=https://nepalhimalpeakprofile.org/gangapurna|access-date=13 December 2021|website=Nepal Himal Peak Profile}}][{{Cite peakbagger|title=Gangapurna|pid=18712|access-date=2021-12-13}}] It is part of the [Annapurna](/source/Annapurna) mountain range in north-central Nepal, and Gangapurna is on the main ridge that connects [Annapurna I](/source/Annapurna) to Gangapurna and [Annapurna III](/source/Annapurna_III).[{{Cite book|last=Gurung|first=Harka B.|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=bRRuAAAAMAAJ|title=Vignettes of Nepal|date=1980|publisher=Sajha Prakashan|pages=229|language=en|access-date=5 December 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211118212048/https://books.google.com/books?id=bRRuAAAAMAAJ&newbks=0|archive-date=18 November 2021|url-status=live}}][{{Cite book|last=Shirahata|first=Shirō|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=igbcAAAAMAAJ|title=Nepal Himalaya|date=1983|publisher=Heian International|isbn=978-0-89346-220-8|pages=220|language=en}}] The main peak of the mountain range, Annapurna I Main, is the [tenth highest mountain](/source/List_of_highest_mountains) in the world at {{Convert|8091|m}} above sea level.[{{Cite book|last1=Western|first1=David|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=s5biLtQdZS4C|title=Natural Connections: Perspectives In Community-Based Conservation|last2=Wright|first2=Michael|date=2013-03-19|publisher=Island Press|isbn=978-1-61091-094-1|pages=264|language=en}}]
The mountain is named after [Ganga](/source/Ganga_(goddess)), the Hindu goddess who is a personification of the river [Ganges](/source/Ganges).[{{Cite book|last=Bezruchka|first=Stephen|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=TFa-ant72OgC|title=Trekking in Nepal: A Traveler's Guide|date=1997|publisher=The Mountaineers Books|isbn=978-0-89886-535-6|pages=186|language=en|access-date=5 December 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211205184520/https://books.google.com/books?id=TFa-ant72OgC&newbks=0|archive-date=5 December 2021|url-status=live}}] Gangapurna entirely lies in the [Annapurna Conservation Area](/source/Annapurna_Conservation_Area), [Nepal](/source/Nepal)'s largest [protected area](/source/protected_area) established in 1985,[{{Cite book|last1=Singh|first1=R. B.|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=mZfDCgAAQBAJ|title=Environmental Geography of South Asia: Contributions Toward a Future Earth Initiative|last2=Prokop|first2=Pawel|date=13 October 2015|publisher=Springer|isbn=978-4-431-55741-8|pages=274|language=en}}] which also encompasses [Annapurna Sanctuary](/source/Annapurna_Sanctuary) and is known for several trekking routes including [Annapurna Circuit](/source/Annapurna_Circuit).[{{Cite book|last=Gurung|first=Manaslu|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=mUraAAAAMAAJ|title=Women and Development in the Third World: A Case Study from Ghandruk, Nepal|date=2004|publisher=WWF Nepal Program Office|pages=76|language=en}}][{{Cite book|last1=Western|first1=David|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=s5biLtQdZS4C|title=Natural Connections: Perspectives In Community-Based Conservation|last2=Wright|first2=Michael|date=19 March 2013|publisher=Island Press|isbn=978-1-61091-094-1|pages=263|language=en}}] The glaciers of Gangapurna, [Annapurna IV](/source/Annapurna_IV), [Khangsar Kang](/source/Khangsar_Kang), and [Glacier Dom](/source/Glacier_Dom) create [Gangapurna Lake](/source/Gangapurna_Lake),[{{Cite web|last=Neupane|first=Tufan|date=3 September 2020|title=Forests replace glaciers in the Himalaya|url=https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/forests-replace-glaciers-in-the-himalaya/|access-date=13 December 2021|website=Nepali Times|language=en-US}}] and the glaciers of the mountain have been melting extensively due to climate change.[{{Cite web|last=Rana|first=Ramji|date=8 October 2018|title=Gangapurna Lake rapidly becoming shallower|url=https://thehimalayantimes.com/nepal/gangapurna-lake-rapidly-becoming-shallower|url-status=live|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211205182715/https://thehimalayantimes.com/nepal/gangapurna-lake-rapidly-becoming-shallower|archive-date=5 December 2021|access-date=5 December 2021|website=The Himalayan Times|language=en}}][{{Cite book|last=Huettmann|first=Falk|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=cPgf5NTcwg4C|title=Protection of the Three Poles|date=26 April 2012|publisher=Springer Science & Business Media|isbn=978-4-431-54005-2|pages=17|language=en|access-date=5 December 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211205184635/https://books.google.com/books?id=cPgf5NTcwg4C&newbks=0|archive-date=5 December 2021|url-status=live}}][{{Cite book|last=Oestigaard|first=Terje|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=PCpmAAAAMAAJ|title=Death and Life-giving Waters: Cremation, Caste, and Cosmogony in Karmic Traditions|date=2005|publisher=Archaeopress|isbn=978-1-84171-698-5|pages=158|language=en|access-date=5 December 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211120222738/https://books.google.com/books?id=PCpmAAAAMAAJ&newbks=0|archive-date=20 November 2021|url-status=live}}] The [base camp](/source/Mountaineering) is located at {{Convert|4800|m}}.[{{Cite book|last1=Club|first1=American Alpine|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=bGmGKqbwe14C|title=1995 American Alpine Journal|last2=Carter|first2=H. Adams|publisher=The Mountaineers Books|isbn=978-1-933056-42-5|pages=253|language=en}}]
== Climbing history ==
On 6 May 1965, Gangapurna was first climbed by [Erich Reismueller](/source/Erich_Reismueller), [Ang Temba Sherpa](/source/Ang_Temba_Sherpa), and [Phu Dorjee Sherpa](/source/Phu_Dorjee_Sherpa) during a German expedition via its south face and east ridge.[{{Cite book|last1=Isserman|first1=Maurice|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=JgEKGGYEpZIC|title=Fallen Giants: A History of Himalayan Mountaineering from the Age of Empire to the Age of Extremes|last2=Weaver|first2=Stewart Angas|last3=Molenaar|first3=Dee|date=1 January 2010|publisher=Yale University Press|isbn=978-0-300-16420-6|pages=521|language=en}}] A Japanese expedition managed a second ascent in 1971 before avalanches killed eight members over a two-day period, the single worst climbing disaster in the Annapurna Himal to date.[{{Cite aaj|article_id=12197218504|title=Asia, Nepal, Gangapurna|year=1982|volume=18|issue=1|pages=185|access-date=2025-06-07}}] Another Japanese party succeeded without major incident in 1974.[{{Cite web|title=Gangapurna, 1974|url=https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/|access-date=13 December 2021|website=The Himalayan Journal|language=en}}]
In 1981, Canadian James Blench and John Lauchlan climbed the mountain using the [alpine style](/source/alpine_style),[{{cite aaj|article_id=12198223301|title=Asia, Nepal, Gangapurna, South Face|year=1982|volume=24|issue=56|pages=233|links=off|access-date=2025-06-07}}] which is considered to be a "remarkable achievement for the era''".''[{{Cite web|title=Gangapurna, South Face Direct, Korean Way; Gangapurna West, South Face (Almost to Summit)|url=http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214165/Gangapurna-South-Face-Direct-Korean-Way-Gangapurna-West-South-Face-Almost-to-Summit|access-date=13 December 2021|website=AAC Publications}}]
In 1988, Gudmundur Petursson led an Icelandic expedition via the mountain's east ridge; due to a three-day [thunderstorm](/source/thunderstorm) that added 50 cm of snow to the mountain every day and increased the risk of an avalanche, the expedition was abandoned after it reached an altitude of {{Convert|5500|m}}.[{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=2supqqoGy7wC|title=1988 American Alpine Journal|publisher=The Mountaineers Books|isbn=978-1-933056-35-7|pages=218|language=en}}] In 1992, Timothy Brill led an American expedition to climb Gangapurna in winter from the south ridge; however, this attempt only reached {{Convert|5800|m}}.[{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=Qrhry6y9GYMC|title=1992 American Alpine Journal|publisher=The Mountaineers Books|isbn=978-1-933056-39-5|pages=216–217|language=en}}] The same year, there were two unsuccessful expeditions led by Spanish mountaineer Francisco Jose Palacios.