# Fred Beckey

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**Friedrich Wolfgang Beckey** (14 January 1923 – 30 October 2017), known as **Fred Beckey**, was an American rock climber, [mountaineer](/source/Mountaineering) and book author, who in seven decades of climbing achieved hundreds of [first ascents](/source/First_ascent) of some of the tallest peaks and most important routes throughout Alaska, the [Canadian Rockies](/source/Canadian_Rockies) and the [Pacific Northwest](/source/Pacific_Northwest).[1][2] Among the [Fifty Classic Climbs of North America](/source/Fifty_Classic_Climbs_of_North_America), seven were established by Beckey, often climbing with some of the best known climbers of each generation.[3]

## Early years

Beckey was born in 1923 near [Düsseldorf](/source/D%C3%BCsseldorf), Germany to Klaus Beckey, a surgeon, and Marta Maria Beckey who was an opera singer.[2] In 1925 economic hardships due to [hyperinflation in the Weimar Republic](/source/Hyperinflation_in_the_Weimar_Republic) forced his family to emigrate to the United States, settling in [Seattle](/source/Seattle), [Washington](/source/Washington_(state)).[4] His brother, Helmut "Helmy" Beckey, was born in Seattle in 1926 and would later become Fred's frequent climbing partner. At age twelve, Fred Beckey climbed Boulder Peak[5] in the Cascades by himself, after wandering off on a family camping trip. Afterwards, his family signed him up with the [Boy Scouts](/source/Boy_Scouts_of_America)[6] where he learned the basic concepts of climbing. Later he joined [The Mountaineers](/source/The_Mountaineers_(Pacific_NW)). In 1939, at sixteen, Fred and two friends climbed 7,292-foot [Mount Despair](/source/Mount_Despair_(Washington)) in the North Cascades, which was considered unclimbable at the time.[2] In 1942, the teenage Beckey brothers snatched a second ascent of [Mount Waddington](/source/Mount_Waddington), which was then considered the most difficult climb in North America.[7] Beckey followed that with many more first ascents of summits in the Olympic and North Cascade ranges. In 1942 he joined [10th Mountain Division](/source/10th_Mountain_Division), based in Colorado, and served as an instructor.[8][2]

After the war, Beckey studied [business administration](/source/Business_administration) at the [University of Washington](/source/University_of_Washington), while still spending a lot of time climbing mountain ranges in the Northwest and desert rock formations in the Southwest. After graduation in 1949 he worked for the *[Seattle Post-Intelligencer](/source/Seattle_Post-Intelligencer)* and became a print shop sales representative.[2] However, he soon discovered that his work interfered with his climbing. For a time, he worked as a delivery truck driver, which left him time for climbing. As time went on, he decided that climbing was his life's focus. He never married or had children, he never pursued a professional career, he never sought money or financial security as a goal—his goal was to climb mountains.[2]

In 1955 Beckey joined the International Himalayan Expedition to climb the world’s fourth-highest peak, [Lhotse](/source/Lhotse). During the expedition his tentmate developed cerebral edema at 23,000 feet on the night before they were to attempt the summit. Beckey descended in a blizzard to get help, but was later blamed by his teammates for abandoning his partner, who was rescued by others.[9][2] Consequently although Beckey seemed a likely choice as a member for first American Everest Expedition in 1963, he was never invited by his ex-teammates. Afterwards Beckey shied away from the large team efforts abroad, preferring smaller alpine-style undertakings alone or with a few companions seeking out America's last unclimbed peaks or striking routes considered too difficult to climb. He often climbed 40 or 50 different summits a year, and over the decades managed to achieve nearly one thousand first ascents.[2]

## Guidebook author

In the late 1940s, he asked [The Mountaineers](/source/The_Mountaineers_(club)) of Seattle to publish his first [climbing guidebook](/source/Climbing_guidebook) for the local peaks. They turned him down, and the [American Alpine Club](/source/American_Alpine_Club) agreed to print a few thousand copies for a flat fee. Between climbs, he wrote several books, most notably the *Cascade Alpine Guide*, the definitive three-volume description of the [Cascades](/source/Cascade_Range) from the [Columbia River](/source/Columbia_River) to the [Fraser River](/source/Fraser_River), now in its third edition, published by The Mountaineers.

## Later accomplishments

In 2003, his 563-page book on the history of the region, *Range of Glaciers*, was published by the Oregon Historical Society Press. According to a reviewer, he did much of the research for the volume in [Washington, D.C.](/source/Washington,_D.C.), at the [Library of Congress](/source/Library_of_Congress) and the National Archives, scouring files of the State Department, [U.S. Geological Survey](/source/U.S._Geological_Survey) and other agencies. Beckey also perused the [Canadian archives](/source/Library_and_Archives_Canada) in [Ottawa](/source/Ottawa), Ontario; [Hudson's Bay Co.](/source/Hudson's_Bay_Co.) archives in [Winnipeg, Manitoba](/source/Winnipeg,_Manitoba); [British Columbia](/source/British_Columbia) archives in [Victoria, British Columbia](/source/Victoria,_British_Columbia); records of the Northwest Boundary Survey at [Yale University](/source/Yale_University); and records of the Northern Pacific and Great Northern railroads in [Minneapolis](/source/Minneapolis).

Beckey continued climbing when over 90 years old.[10][11] His life was the subject of a 2017 documentary, directed by David O'Leske and produced by [Patagonia](/source/Patagonia_(clothing)), called *Dirtbag: The Legend of Fred Beckey*. The film won over 26 international awards, including: the Best Feature Mountain Film at the 2017 [Banff Mountain Film Festival](/source/Banff_Mountain_Film_Festival); the Best Mountaineering Film at the 2017 [Kendal Mountain Film Festival](/source/Kendal_Mountain_Film_Festival); and, the People's Choice Award at the 2017 [Banff Mountain Book Festival](/source/Banff_Mountain_Book_Festival).[12][13]

Mount Beckey, a previously unnamed, 8,500-foot peak in remote West-Central [Alaska Range](/source/Alaska_Range) ([62°51′20″N 152°8′15″W](https://geohack.toolforge.org/geohack.php?params=62_51_20_N_152_8_15_W)),[14] was named after Beckey, after he, Calvin Hebert and [John Middendorf](/source/John_Middendorf) climbed it in 1996.[15][2]

## Death

Fred Beckey died of [congestive heart failure](/source/Congestive_heart_failure), in Seattle, on October 30, 2017 at the age of 94.[16][2]

## First ascents

Partial list of notable first ascents:

- 1939 [Mount Despair](/source/Mount_Despair_(Washington)), [North Cascades](/source/North_Cascades)
- 1940 [Forbidden Peak](/source/Forbidden_Peak), [North Cascades](/source/North_Cascades) - with brother Helmy, [Lloyd Anderson](/source/Recreational_Equipment,_Inc.#History), Jim Crooks, and [Dave Lind](/source/David_A._Lind).
- 1945 [Price Glacier](/source/Price_Glacier_(Mount_Shuksan)), [Mount Shuksan](/source/Mount_Shuksan), [North Cascades](/source/North_Cascades) with Jack Schwabland and Bill Granston[17]: 138
- 1946 *East Ridge* [Devils Thumb](/source/Devils_Thumb), [Alaska](/source/Alaska) with Bob Craig and Clifford Schmidtke (Aug 25)[17]
- 1946 *Liberty Bell*, North Cascades, Washington[18]
- 1947 Mount Hozomeen's South Peak[18]
- 1947 North Peak, [Liberty Bell](/source/Liberty_Bell_Mountain), [North Cascades](/source/North_Cascades) - 1947
- 1948 *North Ridge* of [Mount Baker](/source/Mount_Baker), [North Cascades](/source/North_Cascades) Fred Beckey, Ralph and Dick Widrig (August 1948)[17]: 156
- 1948 [Prusik Peak](/source/Prusik_Peak), [North Cascades](/source/North_Cascades) with Art Holben[19]
- 1954 *Northwest Buttress* to North Peak, [Denali](/source/Denali), Alaska (May 27) with Donald McLean, Charles Wilson, Henry Meybohm and Bill Hackett.[17]: 166[18]
- 1954 South Ridge, [Mount Deborah](/source/Mount_Deborah) with [Heinrich Harrer](/source/Heinrich_Harrer) and Henry Meybohm[17]: 169–170
- 1954 *West Ridge* [Mount Hunter (Alaska)](/source/Mount_Hunter_(Alaska)) - with [Heinrich Harrer](/source/Heinrich_Harrer) and Henry Meybohm[17]: 170
- 1959 *Crescent Arete*, [Mount Owen](/source/Mount_Owen_(Wyoming)), [Tetons](/source/Tetons), with [Yvon Chouinard](/source/Yvon_Chouinard)[18]
- 1959 *Yocum Ridge*, [Mount Hood](/source/Mount_Hood), Oregon, with Leo Scheiblehner[17]: 172
- 1960 *Outer Space*, [Leavenworth, Washington](/source/Leavenworth,_Washington) with Ron Niccoli [18][20]
- 1961 North Face of [Mount Edith Cavell](/source/Mount_Edith_Cavell), [Canadian Rockies](/source/Canadian_Rockies), Canada with [Yvon Chouinard](/source/Yvon_Chouinard) and Dan Doody [21][18]
- 1961 *North Face*, [Mount Sir Donald](/source/Mount_Sir_Donald), [Rogers Pass](/source/Rogers_Pass_(British_Columbia)), [British Columbia](/source/British_Columbia) with [Yvon Chouinard](/source/Yvon_Chouinard)[18]
- 1961 *Beckey-Chouinard Route* on [South Howser Tower](/source/Howser_Spire), Bugaboos, [Canada](/source/Canada) with [Yvon Chouinard](/source/Yvon_Chouinard)
- 1961 *The Priest*, [Castle Valley, Utah](/source/Castle_Valley,_Utah), with [Layton Kor](/source/Layton_Kor), Harvey Carter, and Annie Carter[18]
- 1962 *Question Mark Wall*, [Lone Peak Cirque](/source/Lone_Peak_Wilderness), [Wasatch Range](/source/Wasatch_Range), Utah[18]
- 1963 *Complete North Ridge*, [Mount Stuart](/source/Mount_Stuart), [North Cascades](/source/North_Cascades), Washington with Steve Marts[17]: 226
- 1963 *Northeast Buttress* of [Mount Slesse](/source/Mount_Slesse), [British Columbia](/source/British_Columbia), Canada with Steve Marts and [Eric Bjornstad](/source/Eric_Bjornstad)[17]: 226–227[18]
- 1963 *West Buttress* (IV 5.8 A1), Musembeah Peak, [Wind River Range](/source/Wind_River_Range), [Wyoming](/source/Wyoming) (September) with [Layton Kor](/source/Layton_Kor)[17]: 245
- 1963 *Beckey Route*, Elephant's Perch, [Sawtooth Mountains](/source/Sawtooth_Range_(Idaho)), Idaho[18]
- 1964 *Angel's Crest*, The Chief, [Squamish, British Columbia](/source/Squamish,_British_Columbia)[18]
- 1965 [Mount Sir Donald](/source/Mount_Sir_Donald), [Rogers Pass](/source/Rogers_Pass_(British_Columbia)), [British Columbia](/source/British_Columbia), First Winter Ascent[18]
- 1966 [Mount Seattle](/source/Mount_Seattle), [Saint Elias Mountains](/source/Saint_Elias_Mountains), Alaska
- 1967 *El Matador* (NCCS IV, A3), [Devils Tower](/source/Devils_Tower_National_Monument), Wyoming. FA with [Eric Bjornstad](/source/Eric_Bjornstad)[22]: 403
- 1968 *Direct East Buttress* (IV F8 A4), South Early Winter Spire, [North Cascades](/source/North_Cascades), Washington. FA with Doug Leen[22]: 287–288
- 1968 *South Face* (III F8 A1), [Cathedral Peak (Washington)](/source/Cathedral_Peak_(Washington)), [North Cascades](/source/North_Cascades), Washington. FA with Dave Wagner, John Brottem and Doug Leen[22]: 390
- 1968 *Northeast Face*, Mount Hooker, [Canadian Rockies](/source/Canadian_Rockies), Canada. FA with John Rupley[22]: 410
- 1970 *Beckey's Spire* aka [Christianity Spire](/source/Two_Nuns), Sedona Arizona
- 1970, 1972 [Zeus and Moses](/source/Zeus_and_Moses), Utah. FAs with Eric Bjornstad[23]
- 1970 [South Face](/source/South_Face_(Charlotte_Dome)) of [Charlotte Dome](/source/Charlotte_Dome), III 5.7, [FA](/source/First_ascent) with [Galen Rowell](/source/Galen_Rowell), Chris Jones[3]
- 1972 Moses, Canyonlands with [Eric Bjornstad](/source/Eric_Bjornstad)[24][18]
- 1972 [The Tusk](/source/The_Tusk_(Alaska)), Alaska[25]
- 1976 [Mount Emmerich](/source/Mount_Emmerich), Alaska
- 1989 *South Buttress*, Caliban Peak, [Arrigetch Peaks](/source/Arrigetch_Peaks), Alaska[18]
- 1996 Mount Beckey, Cathedral Mountains, Alaska, with [John Middendorf](/source/John_Middendorf) and Calvin Hebert
- 1997 *Bomber Lake Arete*, [Wind River Range](/source/Wind_River_Range), Wyoming with Cameron Burns[18]

## Other notable ascents

- Second ascent [Mount Waddington](/source/Mount_Waddington), [British Columbia](/source/British_Columbia) - 1942
- Triple ascent of [Denali](/source/Denali), [Mount Deborah](/source/Mount_Deborah), and [Mount Hunter](/source/Mount_Hunter_(Alaska)) - 1954
- 1989 *South Face* of Kedernath, India. Beckey is part of an expedition that makes a very close attempt.[18]

## Personality

[Timothy Egan](/source/Timothy_Egan) captures Fred Beckey's personality in a chapter of *The Good Rain*. Beckey named [Vasiliki Ridge](/source/Vasiliki_Ridge), by Washington Pass, after his one true love. Beckey was a quintessential [dirtbag climber](/source/Dirtbag_climber), well captured by a classic portrait of him by Corey Rich[4] from 2004 [Patagonia](/source/Patagonia,_Inc.)'s Fall catalog, where he is trying to [hitchhike](/source/Hitchhiking) while holding a sign "Will belay for food".[15] His reputation is well known among many climbers, captured in a T-shirt "Beware of Beckey: He will steal your woman, steal your route." [26]

## Books

- *Fred Beckey's 100 Favorite North American Climbs* (Patagonia Inc., 2011, ISBN 978-0-9801227-1-8)
- *Range of Glaciers: The Exploration and Survey of the Northern Cascade Range* (Oregon Historical Society, 2003 ISBN 0-87595-243-7)
- *[Cascade Alpine Guide](/source/Cascade_Alpine_Guide)* (3 vols.) (Mountaineers Books, 1973–2008) - *Columbia River to Stevens Pass* (1973, 3rd ed. 2000, ISBN 0-89886-577-8) - *Stevens Pass to Rainy Pass* (1977, 3rd ed. 2003, ISBN 0-89886-152-7) - *Rainy Pass to Fraser River* (1981, 3rd ed. 2008, ISBN 0-89886-423-2)
- *Challenge of the North Cascades* (1969, 2nd ed. 1996, ISBN 0-89886-479-8)
- *Mount McKinley: Icy Crown of North America* (Mountaineers Books 1993, paper 1999, ISBN 0-89886-646-4)
- *The Bugaboos: An Alpine History* (1987) (Introduction Only)
- *Mountains of North America* (1986)
- *Mountains of North America* ([Sierra Club](/source/Sierra_Club), 1982)
- *Darrington and Index Rock Climbing Guide* (Mountaineers Books, 1976)
- *Guide to Leavenworth rock-climbing areas* (Mountaineers Books, 1965)
- *Climber's Guide to the Cascade and Olympic Mountains of Washington* (American Alpine Club, 1949, revised edition 1953)

## See also

- [Snafflehound](/source/Snafflehound)

## References

1. Modie, Neil (2003-03-08). ["Icon to some, legendary climber Beckey still obscure to many"](http://www.seattlepi.com/local/111703_beckey08.shtml). *Seattle Post-Intelligencer*. Seattle PI. Retrieved 2006-01-07.

1. McFadden, Robert D. (October 31, 2017), ["Fred Beckey, Conqueror and Chronicler of North American Peaks, Dies at 94"](https://www.nytimes.com/2017/10/31/obituaries/fred-beckey-dead-mountain-climber.html?hpw&rref=obituaries&action=click&pgtype=Homepage&module=well-region&region=bottom-well&WT.nav=bottom-well&_r=0), *[The New York Times](/source/The_New_York_Times)*

1. Roper, Steve & Steck, Allen (1979). *Fifty Classic Climbs of North America*. San Francisco: Sierra Club Books. ISBN 0-87156-292-8.

1. Rassler, Brad. ["The Public Ownership of Fred Beckey"](https://sustainableplay.com/the-public-ownership-of-fred-beckey/). *sustainable play*. Retrieved 3 October 2021.

1. ["Boulder Peak - Peakbagger.com"](https://www.peakbagger.com/peak.aspx?pid=27556). *www.peakbagger.com*. Retrieved 3 October 2021.

1. Bossick, Karen (20 June 2018). ["'Dirtbag' Fetes Consummate Climber"](https://www.eyeonsunvalley.com/Mobile/Mobile_Story_Reader/5105/%E2%80%98Dirtbag%E2%80%99-Fetes-Consummate-Climber/). *www.eyeonsunvalley.com*. Retrieved 3 October 2021.

1. Staff Report. ["'Dirtbag: The Legend of Fred Beckey' returns, to show at LTCC"](https://www.tahoedailytribune.com/sports/dirtbag-the-legend-of-fred-beckey-returns-to-show-at-ltcc/). *www.tahoedailytribune.com*. Retrieved 3 October 2021.

1. Denver Public Library 10th Mountain Database

1. "Solu Khumbu Climbs: First Ascents After Lhotse". *American Alpine Journal*. **10** (2): 7. 1956.

1. Shore, Richard. ["Fred Beckey climbing at Nightmare Rock"](http://altusmountainguides.com/blog/fred-beckey-climbing/)

1. Franz, Derek. ["World renowned alpinist and climbing pioneer Fred Beckey dies at age 94"](http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web17f/newswire-fred-beckey-dies-at-age-94). *Alpinist*. Alpinist LLC. Retrieved 4 December 2019.

1. ["Awards"](http://dirtbagmovie.com/awards.html). *Dirtbag Movie*. Fred Beckey Film LLC. Retrieved 4 December 2019.

1. ["Awards"](http://dirtbagmovie.com/awards.html)

1. ["Mount Beckey - Peakbagger.com"](https://www.peakbagger.com/peak.aspx?pid=19088). *www.peakbagger.com*. Retrieved 1 October 2021.

1. Middendorf, John. ["Fred Beckey: Will Belay for Food!"](http://www.traditionalmountaineering.org/News_FredBeckey.htm). *www.traditionalmountaineering.org*

1. ["Remembering Fred Beckey"](https://www.mountaineers.org/blog/remembering-mountaineer-fred-beckey). The Mountaineers. 2017-10-30. Retrieved 2017-10-30.

1. Selters, Andy (2004). *Ways to the Sky*. Golden, CO: The American Alpine Club Press. ISBN 0-930410-83-1.

1. Reppy, Jack. ["Fred Beckey: A Timeline of Ascents"](https://www.sutori.com/en/story/fred-beckey-a-timeline-of-ascents--ssWmdLANxVGqrWNWYe7VEdUJ). *www.sutori.com*. Retrieved 3 October 2021.

1. Beckey, Fred (2008). *Cascade Alpine Guide, Climbing and High Routes.*. Seattle, WA: Mountaineers Books.

1. ["Rock Climb Outer Space, Central-East Cascades, Wenatchee, & Leavenworth"](https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105793664/outer-space). *Mountain Project*. Retrieved 3 October 2021.

1. Child, Greg (October 2000). ["Rock Legends"](http://outside.away.com/outside/magazine/200010/200010rocklegends1.html). *Outside Magazine*. Retrieved 2006-10-04.

1. Beckey, Fred (1969). "Climbs and Expeditions". *American Alpine Journal*. **16** (43). H. Adams Carter (ed.). Philadelphia, PA: American Alpine Club.

1. Stewart M. Green, *Rock Climbing Utah*, 2012, Morris Book Publishing, page 83.

1. ["Rock Climbing in Moses, Southeast Utah"](https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105717024/moses). *Mountain Project*. Retrieved 3 October 2021.

1. [Fred Beckey, *North America, United States, Alaska, The Tusk, Juneau Icefields*](https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197341301/North-America-United-States-Alaska-The-Tusk-Juneau-Icefields), (1973), American Alpine Journal, publications.americanalpineclub.org

1. Egan, Timothy (1991). *The Good Rain*. ISBN 0-679-73485-6.

## External links

- [Biography](http://www.historylink.org/index.cfm?DisplayPage=output.cfm&file_id=9373) at [HistoryLink](/source/HistoryLink)
- [2011 Profile](https://www.wsj.com/articles/SB10001424052970204485304576645473106063438) in *[The Wall Street Journal](/source/The_Wall_Street_Journal)* by Michael J. Ybarra
- [2007 Interview appearing in The Learning Project: Views of Authentic Learning](http://www.mindstrengthbalance.com/learn/interviews/fredbeckey.htm)
- *New York Times*, 16 Dec. 2008. [The Old Man of the Mountains](http://video.nytimes.com/video/2008/12/15/sports/golf/1194835655194/the-old-man-of-the-mountains.html?ref=sports) [Archived](https://web.archive.org/web/20081217072425/http://video.nytimes.com/video/2008/12/15/sports/golf/1194835655194/the-old-man-of-the-mountains.html?ref=sports) 2008-12-17 at the Wayback Machine. Video report on Fred Beckey. (The video displays the date of Dec. 16, although the URL states Dec. 15.)
- [Summer 2012 short film](https://vimeo.com/70662261) of Fred climbing in the Dolomites on Vimeo

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Adapted from the Wikipedia article [Fred Beckey](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fred_Beckey) by Wikipedia contributors ([contributor history](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fred_Beckey?action=history)). Available under [Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/). Changes may have been made.