# Christian Core

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> Source revision: 1341733447
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{{short description|Italian rock climber}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=June 2019}}
{{Infobox climber
| image            = Christian Core on Gioia.jpg
| image_size       = 
| caption          = Christian Core on ''Gioia'' (8C+), [Varazze](/source/Varazze)
| name             = Christian Core
| nationality      = Italian
| birth_date       = {{Birth date and age|df=yes|1974|10|05}}
| birth_place      = [Savona](/source/Savona), [Italy](/source/Italy)
| death_date       = <!-- if applicable use {{death date and age|df=yes|yyyy|mm|dd|yyyy|mm|dd}} -->
| death_place      = 
| residence        = 
| education        = 
| occupation       = Professional [rock climber](/source/rock_climber)
| height           = 177 cm
| weight           = 61 kg
| typeofclimber   = {{flatlist|
* [Competition climbing](/source/Competition_climbing)
* [Bouldering](/source/Bouldering)
* [Sport climbing](/source/Sport_climbing)
}}
| highestredpoint  = {{Climbing grade|8c}}
| highestonsight   = {{Climbing grade|8a}}
| highestflash     = 
| highestboulder   = {{Boulder grade|8C+}}
| knownfor         = [first-ever](/source/List_of_grade_milestones_in_rock_climbing) person to climb an {{Boulder grade|8C+}} boulder
| firstascents     = {{ubl|''{{interlanguage link|Gioia (climb)|lt=Gioia|fr|Gioia (bloc)}}'' (V16, 2008) }}
| namedroutes      = 
| majorascents     = 
| website          = 
| updated          = 31 October 2017
| medaltemplates = 
{{Medal|Competition | [World Cup](/source/IFSC_Climbing_World_Cup) }}
{{Medal|Winner|1999|Bouldering}}
{{Medal|Winner|2002|Bouldering}}
{{Medal|Competition | [World Championships](/source/IFSC_Climbing_World_Championships) }}
{{Medal|Bronze | 2001|Bouldering }}
{{Medal|Gold | 2003|Bouldering }}
{{Medal|Competition | [European Championships](/source/IFSC_Climbing_European_Championships) }}
{{Medal|Gold | 2002|Bouldering }}
| show-medals = yes
}}
'''Christian Core''' (born 5 October 1974) is an Italian professional [rock climber](/source/rock_climber) who specialises in [bouldering](/source/bouldering) and [competition bouldering](/source/competition_bouldering). He is known for being the [first-ever](/source/List_of_grade_milestones_in_rock_climbing) person in the world to climb an {{Boulder grade|8C+}} boulder, ''{{interlanguage link|Gioia (climb)|lt=Gioia|fr|Gioia (bloc)}}'', in 2008. As a competition climber, Core won the [Bouldering World Cup](/source/Bouldering_World_Cup) twice in 1999 and 2002, and also won the [Bouldering World Championship](/source/Bouldering_World_Championship) in 2003.

== Climbing career==

===Competition climbing===

In 1999 Core stopped competing in the [Lead Climbing World Cup](/source/Lead_Climbing_World_Cup) and started participating in the [Bouldering World Cup](/source/Bouldering_World_Cup), organized by [UIAA](/source/UIAA) in that year for the first time in history.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/News/shownews4.lasso?l=1&keyid=32782|title=A Cristian Core e Stèphanie Bodet la Worldcup di Bouldering 1999|editor=planetmountain.com|date=1 September 1999|access-date=8 January 2012}}</ref> He immediately won the Cup, and again in 2002.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/News/shownews4.lasso?l=1&keyid=34068|title=A Core e Perlova la World Cup Bouldering|editor=planetmountain.com|date=23 October 2002|access-date=8 January 2012}}</ref>  In 2003, he earned the title of World Champion in bouldering.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/News/shownews4.lasso?l=1&keyid=34323|title=Core e Levet campioni del mondo Boulder|editor=planetmountain.com|date=11 July 2003|access-date=8 January 2012}}</ref>

===Bouldering===

He has ascended several very hard boulders in Italy near [Bobbio Pellice](/source/Bobbio_Pellice), [Varazze](/source/Varazze), and [Triora](/source/Triora). In 2008, he climbed ''{{interlanguage link|Gioia (climb)|lt=Gioia|fr|Gioia (bloc)}}'', the [first-ever](/source/List_of_first_ascents_(sport_climbing)) boulder graded {{Boulder grade|8C+}} in history, and was for 8 years, the most difficult boulder in the world. In 2011, [Adam Ondra](/source/Adam_Ondra) repeated the ascent and confirmed the grade,<ref>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain.com | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/adam-ondra-the-pure-gioia-interview.html | date=7 December 2011 | accessdate=29 January 2022 | title=Adam Ondra, the pure Gioia interview}}</ref> however, in 2015, Core announced that a hold broke on ''Gioia'', which he could only partially repair, and which slightly lowered the grade.<ref name=8aGioia>{{cite web | website=8a.nu | url=https://www.8a.nu/news/core-gives-us-the-gioia-8c+-history | date=19 December 2020 | accessdate=29 January 2022 | title=Core gives us the Gioia 8C+ history}}</ref>

==Personal life==
In 2009, he married the climber Stella Marchisio.

== Rankings ==
{{See also|List of best IFSC results}}

'''Climbing World Cup'''<ref name="IFSC Worldcups" />
{| class="wikitable" style="text-align:center"
! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 
! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 1995
! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 1996
! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 1997
! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 1998
|-
| align="left" | Lead
| 10
| 11
| 9
| 17
|}

{| class="wikitable" style="text-align:center"
! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 
! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 1999
! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 2000
! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 2001
! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 2002
! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 2003
! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 2004
! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 2005
! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 2006
! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 2007
! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 2008
! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 2009
! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 2010
! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 2011
! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 2012
|-
| align="left" | Bouldering
| style="background: gold" | 1
| 8
| 7
| style="background: gold" | 1
| 8
| 16
| 4
| 4
| 13
| 16
| 54
| 26
| 54
| 32
|}

'''Climbing World Championships'''<ref name="IFSC profile" />
{| class="wikitable" style="text-align:center"
! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 
! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 1997
! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 1999
! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 2001
! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 2003
! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 2005
! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 2007
! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 2009
! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 2011
|-
| align="left" | Lead
| 7
| -
| -
| -
| -
| -
| -
| -
|-
| align="left" | Bouldering
| -
| -
| style="background: #cc9966" | 3
| style="background: gold" | 1
| 18
| 10
| 10
| 33
|}

'''Climbing European Championships'''<ref name="IFSC profile" />
{| class="wikitable" style="text-align:center"
! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 
! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 1998
! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 2000
! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 2002
! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 2004
! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 2007
! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 2008
! style="background:#B0E0E6" | 2010
|-
| align="left" | Lead
| 10
| -
| -
| -
| -
| -
| -
|-
| align="left" | Bouldering
| -
| -
| style="background: gold" | 1
| -
| 16
| 10
| 7
|}

== Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup ==
'''Bouldering'''<ref name="IFSC profile" />
{| class="wikitable" style="text-align:center;"
|-
! width="55" |  Season
! width="55" style="background:gold;" | Gold
! width="55" style="background:silver;" | Silver
! width="55" style="background:#CC9966;" | Bronze
! width="55" |  Total
|-
| 1999 || 2 || 1 ||  || 3
|-
| 2000 ||  || 1 || 1 || 2
|-
| 2001 ||  || 1 ||  || 1
|-
| 2002 || 1 || 1 ||  || 2
|-
| 2003 ||  ||  || 1 || 1
|-
| 2004 ||  || 1 ||  || 1
|-
| 2005 ||  || 1 ||  || 1
|-
| 2006 ||  ||  || 1 || 1
|-
| 2010 ||  ||  || 1 || 1
|-
| '''Total''' || '''3''' || '''6''' || '''4''' || '''13'''
|}

== Rock climbing ==
=== Redpointed routes ===
Core [redpointed](/source/Redpoint_(climbing)) {{Climbing grade|8c}} and [onsight](/source/onsight)ed {{Climbing grade|8a}} routes.

=== Boulder problems ===
Core redpointed {{Boulder grade|8c+}} and flashed {{Boulder grade|8a}} boulder problems.

8C+/V16:
:* ''{{interlanguage link|Gioia (climb)|lt=Gioia|fr|Gioia (bloc)}}'' – [Varazze](/source/Varazze) ([ITA](/source/Italy)) – 2008 – First ascent.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.infoboulder.com/?mod=news&ID=907|title=La Gioia di Christian Core|editor=infoboulder.com|date=25 February 2008|access-date=8 January 2012}}</ref> [Adam Ondra](/source/Adam_Ondra) repeated it on 6 December 2011 and confirmed the 8C+ grade.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/News/shownews1.lasso?l=1&keyid=38873|title=Adam Ondra ripete Gioia 8C+ a Varazze|editor=planetmountain.com|date=6 December 2011|access-date=8 January 2012}}</ref> Third ascent by [Nalle Hukkataival](/source/Nalle_Hukkataival)<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/News/shownews1.lasso?l=1&keyid=41601|title=Nalle Hukkataival ripete Gioia a Varazze|editor=planetmountain.com|date=22 February 2014|access-date=23 September 2014}}</ref>

8C/V15:
:* ''Kimera'' – Rifugio Barbara ([Bobbio Pellice](/source/Bobbio_Pellice), [ITA](/source/Italy)) – 2006 – First ascent<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.infoboulder.com/?mod=news&ID=706|title=Una Kimera per Christian Core|editor=infoboulder.com|date=6 September 2006|access-date=8 January 2012}}</ref>

8B+/V14:
:* ''Toky'' – Val Ellero ([ITA](/source/Italy)) – 2009 – First ascent<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.infoboulder.com/?mod=news&ID=1185|title=Christian Core apre Toky|editor=infoboulder.com|date=31 October 2009|access-date=8 January 2012}}</ref>
:* ''New Base Line'' – [Magic Wood](/source/Magic_Wood%2C_Switzerland) ([CHE](/source/Switzerland)) – 2006<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.infoboulder.com/?mod=news&ID=739|title=New Base Line per Christian Core|editor=infoboulder.com|date=14 December 2006|access-date=8 January 2012}}</ref>
:* ''Beautiful mind'' – [Albarracin](/source/Albarracin) ([ESP](/source/Spain)) – 2006 – First ascent<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.infoboulder.com/?mod=news&ID=650|title=Christian Core, 8b+ in Spagna|editor=infoboulder.com|date=2 March 2006|access-date=8 January 2012}}</ref>
:* ''Ajna'' – [Varazze](/source/Varazze) ([ITA](/source/Italy)) – 2004 – First ascent<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.infoboulder.com/?mod=news&ID=441|title=Christian Core risolve Ajna|editor=infoboulder.com|date=1 June 2004|access-date=8 January 2012}}</ref>
:* ''Toguro'' – Varazze (ITA) – 2003 – First ascent<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.infoboulder.com/?mod=news&ID=208|title='Toguro' 8b+ per Core a Varazze|editor=infoboulder.com|date=10 May 2003|access-date=8 January 2012}}</ref>
:* ''[Dreamtime](/source/Dreamtime_(climb))'' – [Cresciano](/source/Cresciano) ([CHE](/source/Switzerland)) – 2003 – Fifth ascent (first ascent by [Fred Nicole](/source/Fred_Nicole))<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.infoboulder.com/?mod=news&ID=182|title=Christian Core sale 'Dreamtime'|editor=infoboulder.com|date=14 February 2003|access-date=8 January 2012}}</ref>
:* ''Taklimakam plus'' – [Varazze](/source/Varazze) ([ITA](/source/Italy)) – 2002 – First ascent<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.infoboulder.com/?mod=news&ID=156|title=Taklimakam si allunga|editor=infoboulder.com|date=7 November 2002|access-date=8 January 2012}}</ref>
:* ''Shadowfax'' – [Chironico](/source/Chironico) ([CHE](/source/Switzerland)) – 2002 – Third ascent (first ascent by [Dave Graham](/source/Dave_Graham_(climber)))<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.infoboulder.com/?mod=news&ID=128|title=Christian Core, 8b+ su Shadowfax|editor=infoboulder.com|date=19 September 2002|access-date=8 January 2012}}</ref>

== Film ==
* ''i Core, my climbing family'' – 2012 – Regia di Angelo Poli – 45'<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/news/eventi_d.lasso?cl=2&keyid=2171|title=i Core my climbing family su Deejay TV|editor=planetmountain.com|date=16 October 2012|access-date=29 July 2013}}</ref><ref>{{IMDb title|tt2998648|I Core: My Climbing Family}}</ref>

== See also ==
*[List of grade milestones in rock climbing](/source/List_of_first_ascents_(sport_climbing))
*[History of rock climbing](/source/History_of_rock_climbing)
*[Rankings of most career IFSC gold medals](/source/List_of_best_IFSC_results)

==References==
{{Reflist|refs=
<ref name="IFSC Worldcups">{{cite web|url=https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/ranking|title=World Cup Rankings|editor=[IFSC](/source/International_Federation_of_Sport_Climbing)|date=August 20, 2019|access-date=August 20, 2019}}</ref>
<ref name="IFSC profile">{{cite web|url=https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/component/ifsc/?view=athlete&id=122|title=Core's profile and rankings|editor=[IFSC](/source/International_Federation_of_Sport_Climbing)|date=August 20, 2019|access-date=August 20, 2019}}</ref>
}}

== Bibliografia ==
* {{cite book|author=Andrea Gennari Daneri, Christian Core|title=Train!|year=2000|editor=Pareti e Montagne edizioni}}

== External links ==
* {{cite web |url=http://www.planetmountain.com/Special/protagonisti/core/ |last=Stefanello |first=Vinicio |title=Christian Core e Dreamtime |date=14 March 2003 |website=PlanetMountain |language=it |archive-date=3 August 2017 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170803212314/http://www.planetmountain.com/it/notizie/interviste/christian-core-e-dreamtime.html |access-date=2 December 2023}}

{{Climbing World Championships Men's bouldering}}

{{DEFAULTSORT:Core, Christian}}
Category:1974 births
Category:Living people
Category:Boulder climbers
Category:Climbers of Fiamme Oro
Category:IFSC Climbing World Championships medalists
Category:IFSC Climbing World Cup overall medalists
Category:Italian competition climbers
Category:Italian rock climbers

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Adapted from the Wikipedia article [Christian Core](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Christian_Core) by Wikipedia contributors ([contributor history](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Christian_Core?action=history)). Available under [Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/). Changes may have been made.