# Buckram > Mediated Wiki article. Canonical URL: https://mediated.wiki/source/Buckram > Markdown URL: https://mediated.wiki/source/Buckram.md > Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buckram > Source revision: 1331512122 > License: Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/) {{Short description|Stiff cloth of cotton, linen, or horsehair}} {{about|the cloth|Buckrams (''Allium ursinum'')|Ramsons|the songwriter|Buck Ram}} {{Infobox material | name = Buckram | image = Buckram twosides.jpg | image_size = | alt = | caption = Buckram can be shiny or dull. | type = Cloth | density = | abbe_number = | refractive_index = | flammability = | limiting_oxygen_index = | water_absorption_eq = | water_absorption_24h = | radiation_resistance = | uv_resistance = | youngs_modulus = | tensile_strength = | elongation = | compressive_strength = | poissons_ratio = | hardness_rockwell = | izod_impact_strength = | notch_test = | abrasive_resistance_note = | abrasive_resistance = | coeff_friction = | speed_of_sound = | melting_point = | glass_transition = | heat_deflection_temp_note = | heat_deflection_temp = | vicat_note = | vicat = | vicat_a = | vicat_b = | upper_working_temp = | lower_working_temp = | heat_transfer_coeff = | thermal_conductivity_note = | thermal_conductivity = | thermal_diffusivity_note = | thermal_diffusivity = | linear_expansion = | specific_heat = | dielectric_constant_note = | dielectric_constant = | permittivity = | relative_permeability_note = | relative_permeability = | permeability_note = | permeability = | dielectric strength = | dissipation_factor_note = | dissipation_factor = | surface_resistivity = | volume_resistivity = | chem_res_acid_c = | chem_res_acid_d = | chem_res_alcohol = | chem_res_alkali = | chem_res_aromatic = | chem_res_grease_oil = | chem_res_haloalkane = | chem_res_halogen = | chem_res_ketone = | gas_perm_temp = 20 °C | gas_perm_N = | gas_perm_O = | gas_perm_CO2 = | gas_perm_H2O = | price = | footnotes = }} thumb|Buckram is available in many colors. '''Buckram''' is a stiff [cotton](/source/cotton), or occasionally, [linen](/source/linen) or [horse-hair](/source/Horsehair) cloth with a plain, usually loose, weave, produced in various weights similar to [muslin](/source/muslin) and other [plain-weave](/source/plain_weave) fabrics.{{cite encyclopaedia |editor1-last=Marks |editor1-first=Stephen S. |title="Buckram"; "Library buckram"; "Muslin |date=1959 |publisher=Fairchild Publications |location=New York |url=https://archive.org/details/fairchildsdictio0000unse/page/368/|pages=87, 320, 368 |encyclopaedia=Fairchild's dictionary of textiles}} The fabric is soaked in a [sizing](/source/sizing) agent such as [wheat-starch paste](/source/Wheatpaste), glue (such as [PVA glue](/source/Polyvinyl_acetate)), or [pyroxylin](/source/pyroxylin) (gelatinized nitrocellulose, developed around 1910), then dried. When rewetted or warmed, it can be shaped to create durable firm fabric for book covers, hats, and elements of clothing.{{Cite book |last= Arnold|first=Janet|title=Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd|pages=151}} ==Etymology== In the [Middle Ages](/source/Middle_Ages), "bokeram" simply designated a fine cotton cloth. The etymology of the term remains uncertain; the ''[Oxford English Dictionary](/source/Oxford_English_Dictionary)'' considers the commonly mentioned derivation from the name of the city of [Bokhara](/source/Bokhara) unlikely.An example of the "[Bokhara](/source/Bokhara)" etymology: * {{cite book |last=King |first=Donald |title=Age of Chivalry: Art in Plantagenet England, 1200–1400 |date=1987 |publisher=Royal Academy of Arts; Weidenfeld & Nicolson |isbn=9780297791904 |editor1=Jonathan Alexander |location=London |pages=157–161 |chapter=Embroidery and Textiles |oclc=1223895666 |quote=Fine cotton cloth known as bokeram (derived from Bokhara; the cloth was originally imported from Asia) was used for garments, linings and banners. |editor2=Paul Binski |chapter-url=https://archive.org/details/ageofchivalryart0000unse_t1u3/page/156 |quote-page=157}}{{oed|buckram|quote=Of the ultimate etymology nothing is really known. Some refer to Italian {{lang|it|bucherare}} 'to pierce full of holes', supposing that the name was first given to a kind of muslin or net{{nbsp}}... [Reiske](/source/Johann_Jakob_Reiske) (in Constantin. Porphyrog. ed. Niebuhr II. 530) proposes Arabic {{Transliteration|ar|abū qirām}} {{lang|la|'pannus cum intextis figuris'|italic=no}}, but he does not say where he found this compound; the simple {{Transliteration|ar|qirām}} is of doubtful meaning, the Arab lexicographers quoted in the {{Transliteration|ar|Qāmūs}} giving the various renderings 'red veil', 'striped and figured woollen cloth', 'thin veil'{{nbsp}}... Others suggest derivation ''Bokhara'', or ''Bulgaria'', but this does not agree with the early French forms.}} * Citing: {{lang|la|Constantini Porphyrogeniti Imperatoris de Cerimoniis Aulae Byzantinae Libri Duo Graece et Latine}}, edited by [Niebuhr](/source/Barthold_Georg_Niebuhr) (1829) from the recension by [Reiske](/source/Reiske), Volume II. ==Use in bookbinding== Several of buckram's qualities make it attractive for [bookbinding](/source/bookbinding). Highly durable, buckram does not allow the bookbinder's paste to seep through and discolor or stain the book's front and back covers.{{cite web |last=Thomson |first=Paul |title=Introduction to Bookbinding Supplies and Materials |url=https://www.ibookbinding.com/blog/bookbinding-supplies-and-materials/ |website=iBookBinding - Bookbinding Tutorials & Resources |access-date=8 October 2019 |date=8 November 2013}} [Pyroxylin](/source/Pyroxylin)-impregnated buckram is often favored due to its resistance to water, insects, fungi, and general wear. This is especially important for [library binding](/source/library_binding), where many people will be repeatedly handling the same books.{{Cite web|title=Bookbinding and the Conservation of Books - A Dictionary of Descriptive Terminology|url=https://cool.culturalheritage.org/don/dt/dt0414.html#:~:text=Pyroxylin%20impregnated%20fabrics%20are%20superior,for%20use%20in%20library%20binding.|url-status=live|access-date=2020-10-17|website=cool.culturalheritage.org|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200724175614/https://cool.culturalheritage.org/don/dt/dt0414.html |archive-date=2020-07-24 }} However, pyroxylin fabrics are less chemically stable than starch-filled fabrics and can be affected by extreme temperatures.{{Cite web|title=Books and Bound Items - Preservation Self-Assessment Program|url=https://psap.library.illinois.edu/collection-id-guide/bookbound#clothcover|access-date=2023-12-06|website=psap.library.illinois.edu }} ==Use in millinery== [Millinery](/source/Hatmaking) buckram is impregnated with a starch which allows it to be softened in water, pulled over a [hat block](/source/hat_block), and left to dry into a hard shape.{{cite book |last1=Hart |first1=Eric |title=The Prop Building Guidebook: For Theatre, Film, and TV |date=2013 |publisher=Taylor & Francis |isbn=9780240821382 |page=292 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=TSx5VSRqbfgC&pg=PA292 }} Millinery buckram comes in many weights, including lightweight or baby buckram (often used for children's and dolls' hats),{{cite journal |title=The Copyist |journal=The Illustrated Milliner |date=July 1913 |volume=14 |issue=7 |page=68 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=_wlQAAAAYAAJ&pg=RA3-PA86 |access-date=8 October 2019 |publisher=The Illustrated Milliner Company }} single-ply buckram, and double buckram (also known as ''theatrical buckram'' or ''crown buckram'').{{cite newsletter |last=McMasters |first=Lynn |title=Buckram 101 |journal=Finery |date=1 November 2005 |url=http://www.gbacg.org/finery/2005/buckram-101/ |access-date=8 October 2019 |publisher=Greater Bay Area Costumers Guild}} ==References== {{Reflist}} ==External links== {{wiktionary | buckram}} * [https://patents.google.com/patent/US1712991A/en US patent US1712991A], Method for preparing buckram {{Fabric}} Category:Woven fabrics --- Adapted from the Wikipedia article [Buckram](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buckram) by Wikipedia contributors ([contributor history](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buckram?action=history)). Available under [Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/). Changes may have been made.